There is always a distant place
reserved for autumn, reserved for the north, reserved for Hulunbuir.
Chapter 1: There is an Autumn Called “Hulunbuir”
What is Hulunbuir?
In the writer's pen, it is the brushstrokes of wind, the verses of the wilderness.
In the memory of nomadic peoples, it is the homeland where horses and souls find rest.
And in the traveler's eyes, it is a distant land that haunts the soul even before autumn arrives.
September—the time to embrace Hulunbuir.
As grasslands turn golden and forest branches gradually ignite with color, Hulunbuir's autumn approaches—a sweeping, vibrant spectacle about to unfold.
Hulunbuir is vast, and in autumn it seems even vaster;
Hulunbuir is luminous, yet its brilliance shines beyond summer alone.
The changing seasons bring sweeping transformations of color to this land. Traveling through the endless variations of grasslands, wetlands, and forests, you stumble upon one dreamlike place after another in the gentle caress of the autumn wind. Enveloped by emotions that shift from tender to luminous to majestic, you walk and gaze, reaching heights where a single turn reveals the entirety of northern autumn.
I believe that after witnessing autumn in Hulunbuir, I have fallen in love with the northern autumn, even beginning to believe in fairy tales.
The sky stretches azure and boundless; forests blaze with radiant hues; wetlands shimmer in vibrant patterns; cattle and sheep graze lazily.
Between heaven and earth lies autumn—a fleeting rendezvous, embodying primal freedom and boundless vastness.
The wind still blows, carrying the essence of autumns past—forests dyed in layers, grasses steeped in gold, warm and rich, suddenly stirring the soul.
Hulunbuir in autumn is a journey worth taking at least once.
Chapter 2: Inner Mongolia in Autumn—Setting Out Once More!
The story of Hulunbuir
begins in Hailar.
Over seven days and six nights,
we'll tread lightly in pursuit
of that vast and vibrant autumn.
From boundless golden grasslands to dazzling autumn forests;
From mottled river bend wetlands to tranquil volcanic lakes.
I believe there will be a moment
when Hulunbuir's autumn conquers your heart!
Perhaps it's your first horseback ride at Heishantou
Swaying atop a steed, wandering between heaven and earth. That sense of freedom and grandeur from the depths of the grasslands sweeps over you with the autumn breeze. In this moment, we become a moving landscape against the golden prairie.
Perhaps it’s the fairy-tale charm of the birch forest.
It’s a world aglow with gold, a realm where elves dwell. Golden leaves drift down with the wind, reindeer frolic among the birch trees. Standing before a small cabin, I locked eyes with a fawn. In that instant, I believed in fairy tales.
Perhaps it's the majestic grandeur of the Eerguna Wetlands
Crystal-clear on sunny days, soft and gentle on cloudy days, and mysteriously hazy when clouds and mist part. No matter when you visit, it brims with such vibrant vitality. When the boundless wetland takes tangible form, I only wish to linger there a little longer, just a little longer...
Perhaps the Splendor of Autumn in Arxan
Following pristine river bends, traversing vibrant forests of color, the tranquil Heavenly Lake like a sapphire gem—we quietly nestled into that kaleidoscopic world, spending an autumn in this mortal realm that lived up to every expectation.
One unforgettable moment after another
composed the most splendid autumn memories of this journey.
Autumn
fills the entire frontier with richness,
flowing as naturally as breath.
It dances with the rising sun and setting moon,
and flows through the star-studded sky.
It adorns the branches of forests dyed in layers,
and glitters along the shimmering riverbanks.
It dwells in grasslands, in forests,
in wetlands, in celestial lakes—
it is everywhere.
Chapter 3: One Hulunbuir, Ten Autumn Encounters
A Journey in Search of Autumn—From Golden Grasslands to the Colorful Forests of Greater Khingan Range
Hailar Meeting Point > Heishantou Horseback Riding > Eerguna Wetlands > Enhe > Birch Forest > Afternoon Tea at Muyun Mountain Summit > Arxan National Forest Park > Hailar Dispersal
①
Heishantou: Visit Nomads, Become Nomads.
In the border grassland town of Heishantou, we'll step onto local herders' pastures to meet the indigenous people of the steppe.
You can cuddle adorable lambs, try your hand at milking a cow, learn a few words of Mongolian, or ride the grassland train as it slowly traverses the dreamlike golden plains.
This time, we won't just visit herders—we'll briefly become herders ourselves, forging a deeper connection with this vast grassland.
②
First-time horseback riding on the grasslands—a taste of carefree freedom.
After the herder experience, we mount sturdy Mongolian horses and, guided by seasoned riders, embark on our first grassland trek.
On an autumn afternoon, hooves tread upon the golden carpet of grassland, welcoming us. The horses carry us forward gently, accompanied by the dust of the earth, moving with grace and ease.
After the horseback ride, if the weather permits, why not wait together for the sunset over the grassland horizon? Let weariness dissolve in the twilight, let joy spread across the open fields.
③
Eerguna: Nature's Ultimate Expression in the Heartland
On the third day of our journey, we awoke to the cool air of the grasslands and headed for Eerguna—Asia's largest wetland.
You may have heard its name many times, or perhaps seen its lush summer greenery. But as autumn winds sweep through, turning plants golden, it transforms into something entirely different.
As we climbed the viewing platform, the world suddenly opened wide. The river meandered like a silver ribbon, vegetation spread like a golden carpet, and forests stretched to meet the distant horizon.
In that moment, words fail you. You feel immersed in the deepest, most expansive breath of the earth itself.
④
Enhe Russian Village, where warm-hearted locals bake traditional Russian bread.
Enhe Town, artistic yet lively, with log cabins lining both sides of the streets. In autumn, Enhe is dotted with golden hues, truly becoming a page from a fairy tale book.
Here, we make authentic Russian black bread by hand, dipping it in blueberry jam like the locals to savor the most authentic flavor. Russian friends nearby pull out accordions and sing in their native dialect. We couldn't help but hum along, fully immersed in the moment.
As evening's soft twilight descends, we ride horse-drawn carriages or stroll freely through the town. With each pause and step, our hearts beat faster, lingering fondly in this fairy-tale village.
⑤
Encountering autumn birch forests, seeking forest spirits.
Perhaps only by stepping into the birch groves ourselves—hearing leaves crunch beneath our feet, feeling the rough yet straight texture against our palms—can we truly understand these forests. Only then are we moved by their crisp, resilient beauty.
Yet deeper within the woods lie even greater secrets. Here lies a “Reindeer Park,” where traditional gers stand—once homes of the Evenki people. They once hunted deer through these forests; now they raise them for a living.
Following forest paths, we found these forest spirits. Their eyes are clear and serene, gazing steadily at you as if ready to reveal the forest's deepest secrets.
⑥
Overlooking the Morigele River: A Pastoral Afternoon Tea
Crossing from the forest zone back into the pastoral region, we reunited with grasslands teeming with cattle and sheep, and made our first encounter with the Morigele River.
Here, you'll have an entire expanse of pasture to yourself—a realm of pure sky and earth, grasslands and livestock.
We'll ascend to a vantage point overlooking the Morigele River, where Lao She's “world's most winding water” fearlessly meanders before our eyes. In the rustling autumn breeze, the riverbed glows brightly amidst the desolate landscape.
Next, we ascend to the summit of “Muyu Mountain,” savoring afternoon tea amidst the vast expanse of sky and earth. It is a lighthearted delight brewed by the autumn breeze, the grasslands, and the pastures.
⑦
Autumn in Arxan, from forest to celestial lake.
Nestled within the majestic Greater Khingan Range lies Arxan—a dreamland preserved in time. Half forest sea, half volcanic landscape, it is a vibrant paradise blending natural lakes, volcanoes, grasslands, and forests. Autumn in Arxan quietly flows amidst the canopy of white birch and larch trees, radiating a crisp, refreshing energy.
On the fifth day of our journey, we bid farewell to Hulunbuir, traversing ever-changing colors and landscapes to reach this forest park. Here, we slow down, strolling and observing as we pass by Wusulangzi Lake, heading toward the renowned “Arxan Heavenly Lake.” Renowned alongside Changbai Mountain's Heavenly Lake and Tianshan Heavenly Lake, its golden trees and crystal-clear waters weave an unforgettable, dreamlike tapestry of autumn.
Additionally, we'll spend a night at an inn within the scenic area. For Arxan's autumn deserves lingering, pausing, and careful observation.
⑧
Camel Ridge Heavenly Lake, a profound abyss beneath the volcano.
It stands as a dazzling presence in Arxan.
The morning light is soft, the sun perfectly positioned, its rays dancing across the lake's surface like a dream not yet awakened. The profound lake is embraced by endless forests and volcanic rock—intense yet vibrant, serene yet weathered—soaring over a thousand meters above sea level, quietly narrating a geological history spanning 300,000 years.
Step by step, we approach it, step by step into the intense autumn, and step by step into the depths of time and space...
⑨
Azalea Lake, an oil painting lost to the world.
True to its name, Azalea Lake derives its name from the vibrant spring blossoms lining its shores.
Yet many overlook its autumn splendor—enveloped by vibrant forests, bathed in golden hues, and gazed upon by azure skies—revealing a deeper tranquility and crystalline clarity.
Standing amidst this oil-painting-like beauty, we couldn't help but become spellbound, reluctant to leave for a long time.
⑩
Strolling Through Santan Gorge: Unparalleled Autumn Splendor
Santan Gorge comprises three pools: Woniutang, Hushitang, and Yuexintang. The Halaha River weaves through volcanic rock formations, its currents shifting from turbulent rapids to tranquil pools. Golden larch trees blanket the landscape, their hues perfectly complementing the pools and canyon walls.
Next, we head to “Stone Grove Forest.” Here, beneath the crystal-clear river, lie deep brown volcanic rocks. The tall and graceful Xing'an larch trees manage to cling tightly to these volcanic stones and take root even in such an environment.
On one side, piles of rocks; on the other, layers of forests dyed in autumn colors. On this day, we let ourselves be intoxicated by the unique contrast and tension of autumn.
Chapter 4: Autumn is the Season to Visit Hulunbuir!
Hulunbuir's autumn
is a long melody, distant and lingering,
echoing in your heart;
Autumn in Hulunbuir
is a cup of strong liquor, rich and potent,
warming your chest;
Autumn in Hulunbuir,
is a dreamscape, real yet ethereal,
lingering in your memory.
Set forth now, to embrace this seasonal autumn dream!
When you return from autumn's “Hulunbuir,”
it feels as though you've brought back the entire world,
yet as if you've taken nothing at all.
In the end, only that golden grassland remains,
forever rippling within your heart...
Together,
let Hulunbuir
remain forever Hulunbuir.
